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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.